Mong Kok & Night Market Food Tour

Hong Kong after dark is a different city — and it tastes better. Four hours of eating through Mong Kok and Yau Ma Tei: stinky tofu for the brave, egg waffles for everyone, the old fruit market at its busiest, and the Temple Street Night Market in full neon swing.

Come hungry — this is dinner, snacking-style. We graze through the densest square kilometre on earth, and I order the things visitors walk past: stinky tofu (fermented, fried, addictive — smell it before you judge it), curry fish balls, siu mai from the skewer, egg waffles crisp at the edges, cheung fun sliding in sweet sauce, and a claypot rice or dai pai dong plate when you need a chair.

Sample itinerary

• 17:00 · Pickup at your Kowloon hotel — or meet at Mong Kok MTR
• 17:15 · Yau Ma Tei Wholesale Fruit Market — a century-old working market at its evening rush; fruit you've never seen, priced by the catty
• 18:00 · Street-food run: stinky tofu, curry fish balls, siu mai, egg waffles — pace yourself
• 19:00 · Mong Kok's market streets as the lights come on: goldfish street, sneaker street, the last of the bird-garden spirit
• 19:45 · Dai pai dong or claypot rice dinner — proper chairs, proper local food
• 20:30 · Temple Street Night Market: stalls, haggling, Cantonese opera corners and the fortune tellers' row
• 21:00 · Finish with a local dessert — mango sago or a steaming sweet soup — and my late-night map home